The Pannier Market

We're still here in Bideford so let's stop in at the Pannier Market while we are here. I think you will agree that the market is housed in a lovely Victorian building all its own, built in 1884 for 4,200 pounds. Originally it contained a fish market, butchery stalls and corn exchange.

After its opening, 200 people sat down to a celebratory public dinner, followed by a promenade concert. Later that week, around 2,000 children enjoyed a tea party at the market. The name Pannier Market, comes from the French panier, meaning basket, as the farmers' wives brought their wares to market in wicker baskets. A market has been held in Bideford since 1573. 

These days, the Butchers' Row is located along the outside of the building. Why don't we wander inside to have a look at the vendors' stalls?

There are vendors selling fruit and vegetables, antique and vintage items, arts and crafts and second-hand books. One of my favourite stalls offered knitted food. It was so amusing to see cupcakes and fruits made out of knitting, but best of all was the full English breakfast with wonderful knitted eggs, tomato, rashers of bacon and sausage. There was a knitted lighthouse which I remarked to the lady running the stall would make a perfect thermos cosy. After suggesting a few other knitted projects, she asked if I lived in Bideford. She wanted me to knit for them and come up with ideas!

After buying some vintage hankies and engaging in conversation, the lady at the antique and vintage stall recommended that we visit Hartland and its rugged coast down at the harbour. She particularly loved the rock formations and the pub in Hartland. How could you argue with that? We added it to our list of must-sees!

After touring the Pannier Market we ambled down the shop-lined streets and stopped in at Patt's to buy a box of luscious local strawberries.  The shopkeeper, whom I will presume was Patt, asked if we needed clotted cream to go with them. Well, actually we had already bought cream at Morrison's (you do have to have your priorities straight after all). I took the opportunity to ask my favourite question of Devonians... is it cream or jam first on scones? Well, that launched a very long conversation about scones and how to eat them, the rivalry between Devon and Cornwall in this regard, as well as the pronounciation of various English words. It was a delightful interlude. And in case you are eager to know the answer to the question: Patt's firm reply was jam first, then cream "like a hat on top", and that's the way her mother did it too!

Tomorrow, we'll be off to the charming tiny seaside village of Appledore!

Bideford Bound

The lovely quiet town and estuary port of Bideford in North Devon is situated on the west bank of the Torridge River. One of its most distinguishing features is its Long Bridge, built in 1286 of timber, which links Bideford with East-the-Water. The timber was replaced with stone in 1474, being built around the timber so that people could still cross while it was under construction. 

 

Of interest is the fact that none of the 24 arches are the same size. It is thought that this is because the arches were paid for my local businessmen, the larger arches costing more than the smaller ones. the arch was as large as the patron could afford.

 

 

Modern-day traffic necessitated the widening of the bridge in 1925. The town glimpsed through an arch is just as picturesque today.

 

 

There are plenty of lovely shops to explore that line a narrow hilly lane.

 

And down by the quay you'll find the Burton Art Galley and Museum, well worth a visit.

 

When we were there, a group showing of local artists was on exhibit. The quality of the art was impressive. I was attracted to one painting of a stormy sea in particular and asked a lady with a price list how much it was. We started talking and ended up having a lovely long conversation about painting. She is an artist who lives on the quay and I am sure if I lived in Bidford we would have been well on our way to becoming friends.

Just as impressive is the adjoining Café du parc with its French chef who made the best croissants I have tasted in a long time - crunchy on the outside and soft on the inside and buttery throughout. the lemon tart was also excellent. We planned to go back for lunch but time ran out. Next time!  We paid our compliments to the chef en français and decided that if we were Bidefordians the café would be a daily temptation.